The Overlooked Outer Islands of the Bahamas
The Bahamas has it all with various things to do and see…world class beaches, beautiful resorts, great fishing, diving, and snorkeling…and with several islands to choose from, can be a “go-to” destination for multiple visits. This Caribbean paradise, consisting of dozens of inhabited islands and hundreds that are undeveloped, can be reached easily by either plane or cruise ship from the U.S, especially from the east coast.
Nassau and Freeport tend to be the most visited locales, due to their size and casinos but primarily due to both being popular cruise ship destinations. However, the outer islands are equally (if not more) attractive and will provide less crowds, more pristine beaches, and perhaps, more relaxation!
Nassau is the capital of the Bahamas and its largest city. The recently renovated airport serves as the heart of air transportation for the region and is reachable non-stop from several cities in the eastern half of the U.S. Touches of British colonialism are still apparent (and across the entire island chain) especially in the city center where several government buildings, restaurants, and a large flea market exist. Paradise Island, where the popular Atlantis Resort (and casino) and other luxury hotels are located, is reachable via bridges from downtown as well.
The Cable Beach area in between Nassau and the airport now offers the fairly new Baha Mar Resort & Casino which rivals Atlantis in size. Other hotels sharing this nice beach include the Melia and Wyndham plus several nice restaurants featuring the famous Bahamian conch dishes.
But if you want to truly experience all that the Bahamas offers, you must visit the outer islands! Most of these islands offer smaller but still luxurious resorts (mid-range options exist too), relaxing white and pink sand beaches, local cuisine, and some of the clearest water in the world which lends itself to shallow and deep-sea fishing and other water excursions. However, getting to popular islands like Abacos, Exuma, Eleuthera, or others will require a connection on smaller (commuter jets or props) planes through Nassau, Atlanta, or a few FL airports (unless you’re starting from there). But if you’re willing to take a little extra time getting there, it’s well worth the wait!
Just off Eleuthera is Harbour Island which features one of the top beaches in the world. This mile-long pink sand beauty has a handful of top resorts resting on the small hillside above with great restaurants, swimming pools, and plenty of Kalik’s and Bahama Mamas! Getting to Harbour Island is half the fun because once you land at North Eleuthera Airport, you’ll take a short taxi ride to the channel dock where small boats are ready to whisk you across the calm bay to Dunmore Town in H.I. Each segment costs $5 per person. On the other side of the channel, unless you have arranged hotel pick-up, a golf cart might be your only means to get to your final destination as cars are only for local’s use (it’s a small island). Places to stay in Harbour Island include resort hotels overlooking the beach like the Coral Sands, Dunmore, Pink Sands, and Runaway Hill, in addition to the Rock House, which is located in the small town-center (while not on the beach, it does have a reserved area there with lounge chairs/umbrellas for guests). There are also a handful of local restaurants outside of the resorts for lunch/dinner although no trip is complete without a visit to Arthur’s Bakery in town for breakfast or lunch!
The beach itself is considered one of the nicest in the Caribbean and sometimes hosts model and magazine shoots. You can enjoy a nice, long walk or run during the day and perhaps a snorkel off-shore at a reef not too far out. Otherwise, just grab a book, lay out, and try to unwind!
Exuma is another great outer island option although it doesn’t have as many hotel options as Eleuthera/HI. That said, the beaches are as good as any in addition to water adventures galore. The two main resorts on the main island (where airport is located) are Sandals and the Grand Isle, and they share the same postcard cove and white sand beach of Emerald Bay. The former also has a golf course. We had a nice place at Grand Isle with plenty of room (so much room for activities!). There are also resorts on other islands within the Exuma chain but may require a boat to reach them.
One of the great benefits of visiting Exuma is one of the best adventure excursions you can find. The “James Bond” tour, as it’s sometimes called, is offered by a couple of outfitters but includes stops at several locations, each of which are very worthy! Our tour included boating over a blue hole, snorkeling into the grotto where a scene from Thunderball was filmed (hence the name above), walking on a sandbar in the middle of the sea that has been featured on one of those island homes reality shows, swimming with nurse sharks, visiting an island with large iguanas, and the best stop was the famous swimming with the wild pigs experience (which apparently the Nassau resorts have tried to duplicate elsewhere).
The pigs have been conditioned over the years to know that they will be fed if they swim out to greet the boats as they anchor in the calm bay. As the pigs approach, you can swim with them around your boat as you or the guides feed them. It’s amazing to touch and perhaps hold on to these large animals as they swim around looking for food. Usually, the guides have some fruit on board but if not, please don’t be one of those people that decides chips and beer are a part of the pig’s normal diet! Several pigs actually died a few years ago due to something abnormal being introduced into their digestive tract or ecosystem but the population has rebounded since.
The Abacos is also another great island to visit especially if you are a sports fisherman. It is known for both its bone, shallow, and deep-sea fishing options as several marina resorts are located here.
Bimini is the closest Bahamian island to Florida and can be reached by both air and sea. This small key has always been known to South Florida residents (with boats) as a fishing and weekend getaway option but has steadily become more popular with tourists as well.
So, if you like the Bahamas and don’t mind a short connection, check out the Outer Islands. You won’t be disappointed!