The Hidden Gem of Europe: Croatia
Croatia may not be on the radar for most travelers, especially if France, Italy, or Spain haven’t been checked off the list, but if you’re interested in beautiful coastal scenery, centuries old castles (think Game of Thrones), island hopping, and dealing with less tourists than other Euro countries, then you should move this wonderful country further up your list!
Sharing the Adriatic with Italy, Croatia boasts cities steeped with both history and modernization mixed together and a “hidden gem” feel that will make you wonder why you didn’t make the trip sooner. In addition to unique cities on the coast like Dubrovnik to the (south) and Split (north), beautiful islands located in between those two cities (and reachable by high-speed ferries) such as Korcula, Hvar, and Vis, are easily explored on foot, car, and/or other means.
Getting to Croatia normally requires a connection as there is only one non-stop flight from the U.S. (United from Newark but doublecheck with the ever-changing schedules) however connections can be made through several major European cities including London (be sure the Croatian flight is from the same airport), Paris, and Rome plus Frankfurt or Munich in Germany. Croatia Airlines services most of those airports providing access to either of the two main coastal cities or Zagreb should you have interest in exploring the inner country.
Our eight-night trip began in Dubrovnik, with stops (moving up the island coast) in Korcula and Hvar, ending in Split. We would have loved to visit the popular Plitvice Lakes National Park inland but did not have time.
Old Town Dubrovnik is one of the few completely “walled” cities left in the world and borders the Adriatic and the harbor on two sides. The primary entrance is the Pile Gate which will lead you to the beginning of the main street, Stradun, where shopping and other historical sites are located.
One of the main attractions and things to do within Old Town Dubrovnik (and highly recommended) is walking the elevated section of the city walls. Just inside the Pile Gate to the left is the entrance to buy a ticket for access to the elevated fortress walls. The entire loop length is roughly 1.5 miles and provides awesome views and great picture opportunities looking down into the old town, over the Adriatic, and up the hillside towards other areas of Dubrovnik. If you’re visiting during the summer, just be prepared (water/hat) for hot sun as there is little shade!
Old Town is the main draw of Dubrovnik and you can lose yourself within the walls for hours exploring side streets, alleyways, museums, churches, and other historical sights. There are numerous sidewalk restaurants and pubs as well so there are plenty of options for lunch/dinner and an Ozujsko, the popular local beer. And since several Game of Throne episodes have used Old Town as a setting, there are plenty of tours that will show you exactly where a scene was shot…and perhaps have you reenact it yourself!
Other top sights to see within the walls include Onofrio’s Fountain (just after entering the Pile Gate), Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola, Rector’s Palace, Cathedral Treasury, and the Church of St. Blaise. I also visited the War Photo Limited exhibition although it may not be there currently. It featured a pictorial history of the fairly recent 1990’s war in the region plus older conflicts.
Walk through the Bell Tower at the end of the Stradun to reach the Old Harbour marina. A few restaurants, boat tours, and other tourist options exist in this area. We took a short harbor tour from the marina around the neighboring islands which provide a great view of Old Town from the water. If you walk outside the walls from the marina and go around St. John’s Fort, you will come across an area of sunbathing and great views of the Adriatic and neighboring islands
Area to Stay: If you can find a reasonable hotel within walking distance of the Pile Gate or one of the gates at the northeastern wall, go for it. Otherwise, there is an area a few miles away from the constant tourist traffic that will allow you to enjoy the scenic (less-developed) coastline views and still have easy access to Old Town. Several mid and high-range hotels exist at the end of the Babib Kuk/Lapad peninsula that have less crowds, access to the Adriatic for a cool swim, and several dining options within walking distance on a great path following the coastline. We chose the Royal Palm. And to top it off, a city bus line (#6; first/last stop outside the Dubrovnik President Hotel) starts close by and ends at the Pile Gate (and returns) and runs all day long! Hotels will sell you bus tickets for the easy 20+ minute ride to Old Town.
Tip – look for the Cave Bar on the seaside pedestrian walkway. Great place (venture inside to see the natural cave) to grab a drink and take in the sunset!
Once you’ve experienced Dubrovnik, and if you’re interested in checking out beautiful islands with stunning scenery and smaller old towns, look into the Croatian archipelago. High-speed ferries connect most of the larger islands between Dubrovnik and Split.
Korcula is one of the first major islands when heading north from Dubrovnik (towards Split) and is actually known as “Little Dubrovnik” due to its own, smaller walled old town. You can spend a relaxing afternoon walking the streets of Old Town Korcula and enjoy the museums, shopping, and restaurants located within the walls. In addition to the quaint walled old town, Korcula is the purported birthplace of Marco Polo. There are a few hotels inside the walls but within a few hundred feet of the main Land Gate, the somewhat more modern “new” town offers several other hotels, including the Hotel Korsal, and shops.
This is also a great island in which to explore if you’d like to leave the town center. Car rentals are available in the “new” town for a day of exploration to check out the scenic beaches, small towns, and other sites around the island. The road leaving Korcula Town going west following the coast line is a leisurely drive through small fishing towns with hidden, rocky beaches.
Tip - the town of Kneza has a great little beach bistro called “Dalmatino” with tables outside on the water offering fresh off-the-boat seafood and other dishes. Further along, close to the end of the coastal road are other hidden beaches including Vaja Bay, some of them nude. Hey now!
The other end of the island is known for its sandy beaches (less rocks) that are popular (and more crowded) with the locals. Check out Lumbarda or Przina beaches if you’re interested in catching some rays.
Hvar is another popular island and is more upscale as you will be able to tell from the size of the private yachts in the harbor. It has more of a party vibe in the summer months but most of the clubs are located in the center of the town close to the marina. That said, if you don’t stay in the town center, it’s a great island to explore (car, bicycle tours, etc.) to check out wineries and other fun activities. The town itself also has nice shopping and plenty of restaurants along the waterfront. High-speed ferries can connect you to Split (to the north) or Dubrovnik/Korcula to the south.
Vis is another island on the ferry circuit with less population and a smaller main town that is becoming more popular each year.
Split is the second largest city in Croatia (behind Zagreb) and has a more cosmopolitan feel to it than Dubrovnik. Plus, due to its location on the Adriatic and large harbor, multiple cruise ships may be in dock making certain areas of the city center quite busy.
There is an “old town” section of Split as well that is not fully walled or separated like you find in Dubrovnik or Korcula. However, several museums, ruins, exhibits, fish markets, and other historical sites exist to explore during your visit.
Most of the city center consists of pedestrian only walkways and you can easily spend a day winding around the buildings and alleyways shopping, eating, and taking in the local culture. One of the main historical attractions to see is Diocletian’s Palace.
There are several attractions to see within the Palace including the Peristyle, St Domnius Cathedral, Temple of Jupiter, and the underground chambers.
Also, check out the Iron Gate, Riva waterfront, and Marvan’s Hill. The latter is a large park with great views of old town and the Adriatic. Look for stairs up from the west end of the marina off of Marasovica Street.
Area to Stay: You definitely want to be in walking distance of Old Town and the surrounding streets and there are dozens of hotels/apartments located in the downtown area. We stayed in an apartment we found on Booking.com off of Radmilovica which was about a 5-10 minute walk to old town.
Just an unbelievable country and we didn’t even check out the interior or the northern coast!