Dominica - Not Your Normal Caribbean Island
The jungles of Dominica
If you feel all Caribbean islands are the same – nice beaches, big resorts, awesome weather – then you should check out Dominica! I don’t mean that in a bad way since the weather is usually ok but this not-heavily-visited island is an adventure paradise. It’s more known for waterfalls, rain forest, wild jungles, volcanic activity, and rugged scenery than pristine beaches and mega-resorts.
Not to be confused with the Dominican Republic, Dominica is located within the West Indies between Martinique and Guadeloupe. Getting to Dominica requires a connection as its airport cannot handle large jets. San Juan PR, Barbados, St. Maarten, and a couple other islands offer service via a few Caribbean based airlines. The airport, located on the NE part of the island, is small but does offer a few rental car options on-site plus taxi service. As it is on the opposite side of the island from the main town, Roseau (1+ hour drive), it is suggested to arrange transportation in advance should you not be staying close by.
Driving in Dominica is interesting to say the least. Roads are narrow, hilly, and winding and driving at night is not recommended (not lighted away from towns and guardrails are a rumor). As a former British colony, driving is still on the left and for a little local flavor, tapping the horn substitutes for waving hello!
Since most of the more popular sites and hikes are 30 minutes to an hour drive away, a car or guide is recommended to visit them. However, some of the best beaches are located on the airport side of the island. Just allow a little time to find them as signage is minimal!
Unfortunately, Hurricane Maria did a number on the island in 2017. A couple of top resorts were unable to reopen which further limits the lodging options on the island. However, our favorite place to stay and a hidden jewel is Pagua Bay House, a small villa type hotel, only 15 minutes from the airport, with an awesome view of its namesake. Since it’s only six rooms, expect great service (and food) plus tips on enjoying the island from the owners and staff…in addition to a couple of friendly cats that oversee the property. There is a river close by and they provide inner tubes for guests to float down the rapids.
There are several things to do in Dominica including hikes leading to waterfalls, fresh-water lakes, hot springs, and gorges. There is also a trail that traverses the length of the island and requires several days to complete. One of the more popular and easiest to access is Trafalger Falls which is just a short hike from the parking lot where two falls exist. It is located in the same vicinity as the Titou Gorge and Middleham.
Emerald Pool is located in the center of the island and has a smaller fall with a great pool in which to cool off.
Middleham Falls is a strenuous hike to a 200’ waterfall with a pool for swimming. Roughly about 4-5 miles roundtrip, a portion goes through a rain forest so it was a bit slippery at times. Also seemed like it was uphill both ways but worth the trip!
Titou Gorge is a relatively small canyon where you can swim up to a small waterfall and drift down the current looking up the sheer walls. The current is swift in spots but it’s not too deep (plus life preservers are available) so with a little effort, you can get to the top of the gorge and float back down. This can get a little crowded at times so be prepared or come early.
And Boiling Lake is a longer hike (3+ hours each way; didn’t try this) but many rave about it. One of the larger natural hot springs in the world on this trek.
Bring your water shoes, hybrid shorts, and stamina for many of the hikes on the island!
We loved the uniqueness of Dominica as compared to most other Caribbean Islands. But since a vacation should include a bit of rest, we continued on to Barbados to add the relaxation component!