Fifty Shades of Irish Green!
The “Deck of Cards” in Cobh
Ireland is known as the Emerald Isle but the country has far more shades of green than just one. From rolling pastures and meadows full of sheep and livestock to jagged cliffs with jaw-dropping vistas, it seems to offer every color of green in the spectrum. Adding in friendly people, surprisingly good food, and more pubs per capita than almost anywhere else in the world, culminates in a journey full of great memories day and night!
After a very early arrival in Dublin, our journey began with a trip to the SW coast of the country. Most of the tourism inherent to the Republic is closer to the western and southern coasts of the island, which is about a three-hour drive from the hub of Ireland.
When originally planning the trip, I didn’t think we would see a top attraction until we got closer to the coast. However, for those travelers taking the M7 towards Limerick, there is a unique rest area that celebrates the role that U.S. Presidents have played (relating to Ireland) including the most Irish president of them all, Barack “O’Bama”. The Barack Obama Plaza just off the highway, in addition to the expected roadside items, has a second floor museum showcasing various American president’s visits over the years and their connection to the country.
With green fields comes gray skies, so don’t be surprised if a portion of your visit includes a little wet weather, which we encountered on the coast. But if it doesn’t, some of that Irish luck has already rubbed off on you!
The second most visited tourist attraction in Ireland (what is the first you ask; more on that later) are the Cliffs of Moher, located on a desolate stretch of western Irish North Atlantic coastline. There is a parking lot across from the main entrance and after a short stroll past dozens of tour buses, you will be mere feet away from the sheer drop-off to the ocean below. Teeming with various birdlife, the cliffs extend in both directions where a walking path can be taken to various viewpoints including O’Brien’s Tower.
Another vantage point that most visitors do not take advantage of is from below courtesy of the Doolin Ferry. The hour-long tour from the quaint fishing village just north of the Cliffs offers a reverse view of the cliffs looking up from sea level. While the boat does not venture too close to the cliff’s edge, it is a unique viewpoint that most tourists aren’t aware of and don’t experience.
Doolin itself offers a few of the ubiquitous pubs with fish and chips that the country is known for, which should be taken advantage of due to Moher’s distance from other towns.
Another lesser-known set of sea bluffs, which is similarly impressive but not nearly as crowded, exists south of Moher and is known as the Kilkee Cliffs. Once you drive through the small village, take W End road to the Diamond Rocks Cafe. Its’ large parking lot serves as the entrance to a cliffside walk that provides great views of the cliffs, coastline, and the town’s harbor behind you.
The small cities of Ennis, Shannon, or Limerick can all serve as a base for seeing the attractions in this area.
When leaving County Clare for County Kerry (or vice versa), it’s suggested to take the Shannon Ferry (to/from Killimer and Tarbert) to cut 1-2 hours off your drive instead of driving back towards Limerick. Pay on board for the 20-minute vehicle ferry crossing.
The western coast of Ireland consists of several peninsulas, each with beautiful coastlines and lovely local towns. While the Kerry Peninsula garners quite a bit of deserved attention, one that should be added to the itinerary is the Dingle Peninsula.
The namesake town, recently known as the home of Fungie the dolphin, is a postcard fishing village that offers surprisingly good restaurants and unique pubs in the town center. Highly recommended is the “Out of the Blue” restaurant sitting across from the harbor on the main street plus Foxy John’s pub, where you can drink a pint, buy hardware and enjoy live music simultaneously, at the top of town.
The entrance to the Dingle harbor with a mural of Fungie (who recently passed)
Perhaps the best attraction on this peninsula is Slea Head Drive which begins just outside of town. This loop drive teeters on the sheer cliffs of the peninsula before circling back inland towards town. Narrow in spots, the jaunt provides awesome views of the Blasket Islands and purportedly, a site where one of the last Star Wars films was shot (where Luke took refuge). Also, you can grab a pint in the most westerly located pub in the entire country (some pub signs said in all of Europe but they must have forgot about Iceland!). And if you want to pet a baby lamb, there are a few stops on the drive which offer that too!
You can also take a jet boat tour along the coastline and towards the islands offshore. The boat’s strong engines cut through the wavey North Atlantic surf with ease so you can enjoy the cliff views from seal level in addition to sea life (sea lions, whales, dolphins) and a few isolated island cottages where you can stay off the grid and tend sheep!
The town of Killarney and Ring of Kerry are the crown jewels of the highly visited peninsula. The Ring loop is very popular with tour buses coming from Dublin and takes a few hours to drive, assuming a few stops are mixed in. If time allows, take the sub-loop on the eastern edge (buses don’t normally partake) which provides great views of the Skellig Islands and the rugged North Atlantic coastline. A few other spots to check out on the Ring include Kells Bay, Waterville, and Sneem.
The town of Killarney is a must-see and can serve as a base for not only the Ring of Kerry but exploring the Gap of Dunloe, Killarney National Park, Ross Castle, and the town itself, which is abundant with great restaurants, lively pubs, shopping, and other sights.
The Gap of Dunloe, which is a unique drive on a narrow, lightly trafficked road, lies between N71 and N72 on the western side of the lakes found within the National Park. You must plan ahead when oncoming traffic approaches because in most places, the road is too narrow for a car to pass. But the Irish, leaning on their ingenious traffic engineering repertoire, planned a few pullouts along the way.
Although there is minimal automobile traffic, you might get caught in another kind of Irish traffic – jaunting cars!
Jaunting cars in the Dunloe!
While driving the Gap, you can take a stop roughly halfway at Lord Brandon’s Lodge to admire the lake and old domicile namesake. And in the heart of the Dunloe, you will venture across the centuries old Wishing Bridge. While crossing, whether by car or on foot, make a wish and see if legend rings true with it being granted.
Heading south from Killarney towards Cork, the Blarney Castle is just a short detour off the main highway. The sprawling grounds feature much more than the iconic Blarney Stone (60-90 minute wait to see/kiss it when we were there) and castle including botanical gardens, caves, dungeons, water gardens, bee observatory and the obligatory dining and gift shop.
Down the road from Blarney and adjacent to Cork lies Cobh, a coastal city which was the last port of call for the Titanic. In addition to the Titanic Museum, you can check out the “Deck of Cards”, a row of colorful houses with a backdrop of the local cathedral.
Between Cork and Dublin lie several sights to see but two worth pointing out are the Rock of Cashel plus the vibrant town of Kilkenny. The Rock of Cashel, an old castle with various parts of its exterior missing, sits on top of a hill overlooking the namesake town below and can be seen for miles. The view of the chartreuse valley below stretches for miles.
The iconic town of Kilkenny is a great overnight location for some lively pubs, the Smithwick’s Experience, and other downtown sights. In addition to Smithwick’s, check out the Paris Texas pub. I’m partial as I have been to the small town in east TX, but this place is massive, relating to most other pubs, with several different rooms to drink and dance (and drink again)!
Dublin seems to have more pubs per capita than most major cities and if you’re there on a Fri/Sat night, be prepared for party central! From Temple Bar to pedestrian only streets to neighborhoods just outside the city center, it seems as if all of Dublin partakes in a few pints at the dozens of pubs clustered throughout.
But Ireland’s largest city offers much more than ubiquitous taverns! Trinity College (Old Library), Dublin Castle, Christ Church and St Patrick’s Cathedrals, Guinness Storehouse, and the National Museum & Gallery of Ireland, are all within walking distance of the city center.
Trinity College is a renowned European campus which is open to the public if you would like to take a stroll through the sprawling buildings and greens. The Old Library, which usually requires a reservation to visit, features thousands of works of legendary authors, philosophers, and scribes, plus one of the oldest books in the world, the Book of Kells.
Downtown Dublin is a perfect city to walk around pedestrian-only walkways to enjoy shopping, street performers, and of course, another pub! The Temple Bar, close to the River Liffey, offers a plethora of pubs and restaurants for those interested in a night on the town.
The Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathedral, within a few blocks of one another, reveals a glimpse into the medieval and early settler histories of the nation’s capital.
If you were wondering what the #1 tourist attraction in Ireland is, it lies in Dublin and centers around a world famous libation. The Guinness Storehouse, a 10-15 minute walk from the aforementioned cathedral, offers an extensive look into the history of one of the most famous brews in the world. The multi-story venue provides an in-depth education of the distilling, distribution, philanthropy, and marketing behind this iconic brand, not to mention a free pint at the rooftop Gravity Bar that provides a 360 view of the city!
If you are a lover of beautiful green scenery, friendly people, lively towns, and of course, a pint or three, Ireland is a must!