Incredible Iceland!
Basalt columns on south Iceland beach
If you are looking for a destination out of the norm – not just another island beach or a country with countless cathedrals that all start looking the same – then Iceland is for you! A 4-5 hour flight from the U.S. east coast, Iceland provides adventures galore, several things to do, and/or a relaxing stay in a country and city that is at the top of most travel hit lists currently.
Waterfalls, glaciers, volcanos, geysers, geothermal pools, and lava fields await those who are interested in seeing more than just the capital, Reykjavik, which has its own distinctive personality. If you have time (7-10 days) to drive the entire Ring Road, you can see most of the island but our time was shorter so we picked a few highlights in the southern region.
Our late March visit covered 5 nights/6 days, visiting the Golden Circle, Jokulsarlon Lagoon, Skogafoss/Vik, and the “big city”of Reykjavik – which it is compared to the rest of the island – with a stop at the Blue Lagoon before our departure. We were prepared for, based on what we had read, the unpredictable and harsh weather of Iceland, but luckily enjoyed mostly 40 degree weather and only one storm (at night). Even though we didn’t encounter much rain/snow, our waterproof gear came in handy around the many waterfalls where mist and blowing water was present.
Upon our pre-dawn arrival at the modern Kevlavik Int’l airport 30 miles outside of Reykjavik, we rented a 4 wheel drive (necessary for most times of the year, perhaps even summer) at an off-site rental office and….returned to the airport to wait for a little natural daylight. Once a few rays started to break through, we started a circuitous journey around the city to reach the Golden Circle, enjoying unique landscapes, Icelandic horses (apparently trained to pose with tourists), and few cars on the road.
The Golden Circle provides a day full of stops with the main stops being the Pingvellir National Park, Geyser Hot Springs, Gullfoss, and possibly Kerio (in warmer months). Depending on when you visit and how you see this area (driving yourself or taking a day bus tour from Reykjavik), there could be plenty of tourists there especially at Pingvellir.
This area, where the North American and European continental plates are slowly separating, has been a meeting point of Icelanders over the last thousand years and is one of the most historical points of the island. You can walk down through a long, narrow rift valley which shows the tectonic plate shift plus leads to areas with great views of the valley and a waterfall towards the end. A visitor center at the parking lot provides more history on the area. Be prepared to pay to use the public restrooms – it’s an Iceland thing!
The Geysir Hot Springs area is cool to see, especially if you’ve never visited Yellowstone (if you have, it may be underwhelming but still interesting), and there is one geyser (Strokkur) that erupts every 20 minutes or so. Several other geothermal pools are around with the accompanying smell which provides an apocalyptic feel (“I love the smell of sulphur in the morning!”).
Strokkur geyser in the Golden Circle
Places to stay in this area include the Litli Geysir Hotel directly across the road from Geysir. While staying there, we were lucky to see the Northern Lights during our first night. Although our pictures looked far better than the lights did with the naked eye, we were glad to cross it off the must-see list!
Gullfoss is an impressive multi-drop waterfall and even though it doesn’t have a huge vertical drop, it is overpowering with the overall size of the river and various drops as it descends through the valley. There are two (actually 3; one trail leading down from the VC was closed due to ice) vantage points to take in the falls which provide an awesome chance to take a great screensaver shot.
There’s not much Icelandic wildlife roaming about but what they do have is some of the most beautiful horses I’ve ever seen and I’m from the Southwest! You can easily pull over where they’re grouped behind a fence for a great selfie. I think they’re used to it!
Our second day was spent trekking east to the Jokulsarlon lagoon area which meant several hours on the Ring Road. The only “highway” on Iceland is primarily a two lane road, except for around Reyjkavik, and the speed limit is around 50 so it’s far from an interstate. However the RR, especially the southern portion, offers countless views and constantly changing landscapes along this stretch. If you’ve got a rental, be sure to fill up when you have the opportunity as gas stations (and towns...or people or life in general) are scarce and scarcer as you drive further away from the city.
There are several small towns that may be great for lunch plus several sights along the way including the towns of Hverageroi (known for its farm-to-table meal options and flower markets), Hella, and Vik. The latter is a nice community around the half-way point to the lagoon and has a few dining options plus gas (fill up here!). A black-sand beach close by (turn off on a road on a hill as you approach the town) has basalt columns and if in-season, various types of birds nesting on the cliffs.
You’ll also pass a couple of worthy waterfalls traveling east between Hella and Vik – Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss. If you haven’t figured it out, “foss” stands for waterfall in Icelandic. Seljalandsfoss is a tall, narrow falls that can be seen from miles away as you approach on the Ring Road and has a trail behind the cascading water. Wear your waterproof gear as you will get soaked (even in front of the falls) and watch your step (icy and slick) but it’s pretty cool if you’re up for the adventure! Skogafoss is equally impressive but different as it is a wide, powerful falls (3rd photo below) where you can walk up the riverbed as close to the bottom of the waterfall (and full saturation!) as you dare. There is also a stairway to the right that leads to an observation platform up top for views of the river above and valley below.
About 20 miles before the Jokul lagoon, there is a glacier called Svinafellsjokull (gotta love the Icleandic language!) that is worth checking out. It’s down a mile-long bumpy, gravel road but has a great pay-off. You can look down into the glacier valley for some unbelievable views of centuries old ice.
Another half hour down the road is the Jokulsarlon Lagoon which carries the ice that breaks off the adjoining glacier to the Atlantic. You can park in the lot between the highway and the ocean and watch icebergs floating towards the ocean, then get pushed back onto the beach by the waves. This provides an awesome photo op with pieces of clear, blue ice, big enough to stand on, resting on black volcanic sand - quite a contrast! Depending on when you visit, two excursions are available for those seeking a bit more adventure and a visitor center on the other side of the road has info for both (but recommend booking in advance). During the colder months, you can book an ice cave tour where you can walk a few hundred feet into a natural cave under the glacier. Several companies offer tours which start with a very bumpy 20-30 minute trip, usually on an oversized snow tractor vehicle (some offer large SUV’s) to the foot of the glacier where the cave is located. During the warmer season, boat tours exploring the lagoon will get you up close and personal with the floating ice, seals, and various bird species.
There are few hotels and restaurants in this area so book ahead if staying overnight. We stayed at the very nice Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon. And like most places in Iceland, meals are expensive here. A house salad was around $28 USD…and we weren’t in Manhattan! Not sure why lettuce and fish are over-priced on the island…just part of the local economy I guess.
During your return trip to Reykjavik, hit the places you missed on the way out before arriving in the largest city on the island, where over half of the island’s population resides in the greater capital region. The city has a lively downtown with plenty of bars, cafes, restaurants, and shopping (all fairly expensive). There are also plenty of museums, cultural, and historical exhibitions within the city as well. And two popular Iceland food options that can be found everywhere downtown are influences from both sides of the pond – hot dogs (U.S.) and fish & chips (U.K.). Not sure what’s behind this but you will notice numerous stands and restaurants in this area featuring both!
There are plenty of hotel options but for ease of getting around, try to stay between the Tjornin Lake and the bay. We chose the Hotel Reykjavik Centrum. This area provides the ability to walk to the more popular points of downtown including the waterfront, popular Laugavegur street, Settlement Exhibition area, plus the Hallgrimskirkja.
The latter is the largest church in Iceland and the tower provides great views in all directions. There is also interesting street art in the neighborhood surrounding the church.
No trip to Iceland is complete without a visit to the Blue Lagoon. It’s located close to the main airport so a stop on your arrival/departure day might make sense. There is a luggage storage building at the beginning of the entrance walkway. Different ticket levels exist but having the robe/flip flops is a must. You can buy ticket packages through the BL website that includes bus transportation to/from the city or airport. Yes, the BL is touristy but unique and a must-do!
Iceland is another destination that we plan on visiting again. There was so much to see during our five night stay that at times, I felt like I was Clark Griswold at the Grand Canyon! Next time, a trek around the entire Ring Road is in order to check out spots in the northern section of the country.