Surprising Portugal!
Disney-like Sintra outside of Lisbon
It’s ironic that Portugal is known for its early explorers yet is enjoying a renaissance of sorts as it is being re-discovered by tourists interested in its culture, “cool factor”, and ease on the wallet. If you are interested in walking cobblestone pedestrian-only streets, visiting century old monasteries and castles, plus enjoy good food and drink, then start planning your visit!
Non-stop flights are available from the U.S. to Lisbon (in addition to Porto; United offers a seasonal flight from Newark) plus access is easy from most of Europe. When in either Lisbon or Porto, I suggest looking into an apartment rental either through Booking.com (popular in Portugal) or AirBNB. You will get more for your money (square footage, kitchen) plus might get a better location as hotels are limited (or more expensive) in or close to the old sections of each city.
The two largest cities in Portugal, Lisbon and Porto, are located in river valleys which can provide a work-out if you choose to walk everywhere as they are built on the side of hills. There are trams, verniculars, “elevadors”, tuk-tuks (motorized three wheelers or modified golf carts – they all look different) and taxis to get you around as well if you prefer…all relatively cheap as compared to major U.S. cities.
LISBON is a thriving, “happening” city with plenty of night life, great restaurants, cathedrals, museums, and shopping. If you only have a couple of days (could easily spend longer here), there are plenty of things to do and places to see within Alfama, Baixa, and Bairro Alto inside the city center. It is all very walkable (if you’re in decent health) plus there are trams should you prefer public transportation.
Within Alfama, be sure to visit the Sao Vicente De Fora. The monastery to the side has several azulejos to check out plus great views of the city and river from the roof top terrace. Also, the massive Castelo de Sao Jorge is close by and takes a few hours on its own to absorb all it offers. There are also smaller alleyways leading back to the river or Avenida area that provide glimpses into traditional Lisbon life. Listen to the local Fado music emanating from local cafes plus try the local liqueur shots in chocolate cups that many shops sell outside their businesses.
Baixa features plenty of shopping and sight-seeing attractions including the Elevador de Santa Justa and Igreja de Sao Domingos which is close to Rossio Square. The former is a Neo-Gothic lift that features great views of the area from up top. Arrive early though as lines start building rather fast.
One of the main attractions of Bairro Alta is Rua Garrett (Chiada area) which hosts high-end shopping and fantastic restaurants. We got lucky as we stayed in this area and very close to one of the best pastry (try the natas!) shops in central Lisbon called Praca Luis de Camoes (close to Diesel store). Tram 28 also starts in this area but start your day early to avoid lines and overcrowding on the tram if you want to experience the ride from here through Alfama.
Also, the Belem Tower is a short taxi ride away in addition to the Jeronimos Monastery. The former, built in the early 1500’s, is one of the most historical buildings in greater Lisbon and served as a navigational point for early explorers.
Two other areas to visit that are helping to keep Lisbon hip and relevant is the TimeOut Market (close to Cais do Sodre) and the LxFactory (R. 1 de Maio under the Pte. 25 de Abril bridge, which is a replica of the Golden Gate Bridge). The latter offers cool shops, unique restaurants, and one of Bordalo II street art works. The Rio Maravilha restaurant/bar at the end of the strip provides great views from the outdoor lounge on the rooftop where the famous “checkered lady” is also located.
TimeOut is a great place to hang out and enjoy great food/drinks for lunch or dinner. You can’t really go wrong with a choice as the best restaurants in the city have pop-up locations there. We live in the greater NYC area and enjoyed some of the best sushi we’ve ever had at Confraria.
Also highly recommended is a day trip to Sintra. This hilltop Shangri-la outside of Lisbon offers castles, palaces, parks, and other sights. Unless you splurge for a personal guide, buy a R/T train ticket from Rossio station in Baixa. It takes about 45 minutes with several stops. Once you arrive in Sintra, follow the crowds to the bus stop where you can buy tickets to visit Castelo dos Mouros (think Game of Thrones), Palacio de Pena (Disney-like), Quinta da Regaleira (try to find the cisterns with staircases down into the grottos and an underground tunnel system), and other unique points of interest. There are two bus lines (stop/start close to train station) needed to visit most of the locations or just take the main one (#434) to visit the first two sights mentioned previously. This line will also take you into the old town of Sintra as well.
Suggested Area to Stay: I suggest staying in the Chiado or Baixa area. Either are centrally located meaning you can walk to Alfama, Rossio, the riverfront, and other surrounding neighborhoods within minutes. We rented an apartment in Praca Luis de Camoes (a happening square!) right next to a great pastry shop and close to several nice restaurants. For great seafood close by, treat yourself at “Sea Me” (located on Rua do Loreto) but call ahead for reservations. It was our most expensive meal in Portugal but well worth it!
PORTO is more of a laid-back city than Lisbon and if you like wine (or port in this instance), you’ll be pretty relaxed too! The city center, obviously smaller than Lisbon, is easy to navigate but if you decide to visit the riverfront (Ribiera), be ready for a serious descent.
One of the main things to do within Porto is the Clerigos Tower. It is noticeable from most places within the city center as it towers above most other buildings. It offers great views of the city but be sure to arrive early. The tower stairs are narrow and logjams start once the crowds pick up.
A short walk from the Tower is the Livraria Lello bookshop. It inspired the Harry Potter library in Hogwarts when J.K. Rowling lived in Porto. Entrance tickets can be purchased next door.
Other notable sights and places to see include the Se Cathedral, the Sao Bento train station (check out the azulejos in the lobby), and the R. das Flores which is a pedestrian street with shopping and restaurants (some with outside seating, great for people-watching and a Super Bock!).
Once you walk down to the river, this area is known as the Ribiera. It’s a bit touristy but full of life at night and features plenty of restaurants and bars. Venture into the streets behind the riverfront pedestrian walkway for other choices. Tip - the Wine Box restaurant offers excellent tapas and wine selections.
The Ponte Luis I bridge connects Porto and Vila Nove de Gaia. It’s a short walk across the lower or upper spans providing great views and easy access to/from either side. In addition to towering cathedrals and a bustling river scene, there are several “port lodges” across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia. Port lodges provide tastings and tours of their cellars and a few, like Sandeman, have nice bars on the riverfront that offer great signature drinks and people-watching!
If you have time to take a tour to the Douro River Valley, I highly recommend it. Several companies offer day trips and can pick you up at your hotel/apartment. Most offer visits to 2-3 wineries, lunch, and possibly a short boat tour on the Douro. It’s a beautiful valley with wineries in all directions which are separated by rows of olive trees (used as boundaries instead of fences).
Suggested Area to Stay: If you can find a room close to the R. das Flores area or Se Cathedral (limited options around there though), you will be in the center of the sights. We stayed behind the cathedral (R. Dom Hugo) which put us about 5 minutes from the Sao Bento and a 10 minute downhill trek to the Ribiera. The upper span of the Luis I was right around the corner too.
If you plan on visiting Portugal during the summer months (or shoulder months of May & September), a visit to the Algarve should be considered. In addition to great beaches, picturesque cliffs and sea caves await for the adventure seeker. It will be crowded in July/August but if you can cope with a plethora of tourists, you should be rewarded with great weather and the opportunity to find a secluded cove if you’re up to exploring!
If you are flying or training into Faro (the only major airport in the region) and picking up a rental, spring for the toll tag and take the new highway (toll road) to travel either direction. The old road is slow with nothing of note to see plus has plenty of roundabouts. Look kids, Big Ben…Parliament (a Clark Griswold, European Vacation reference).
Regardless if you’ve marked Spain, France, or Italy off your list, Portugal should be next!